7 Tips for Foodies in Copenhagen

My so called real life turns out being pretty exciting and time-consuming at all ends, so that I hardly realized how short the days have become. In the morning, the city is shrouded in mist, sometimes even all day long and I like this mist that puts a bit of cotton wool between the self and the day and makes the bridges look like floating.
And even better is to get lost with hands holding hot tea and thinking of our long weekend in Copenhagen. That is quite a few many weeks back now. That was totally awesome and could be summarized as follows: It was summer and I have lost my heart to Copenhagen.

To the breeze that always blew and gave us the most beautiful sunny but not too hot days. To the architecture – all day long you just want to admire buildings and absorb shapes and possibilities of living. To the people we met who are most friendly, relaxed, tall, beautiful and incredibly well dressed. And this style of fashion. No brand logos or imprints, lots of black and white or neutral tones, great cuts and everything worn so casually.
To the fantastic food in restaurants and cafes that made it so easy to surrender ourselves to plates and wine and to discuss the day’s events. A way of cooking that relies on great products and with great sensitivity lends it its finishing touches. A few items on the plate, not too many tastes, but what is can shine.
And a coffee, which is simultaneously sweet and malty and slightly salty, and is totally to be paired with a piece of cake, but that’s not a must.

And then there’s the light that is so bright and radiant, as I have previously experienced only in Tallinn. Somehow lighter. And at the same time friendly, enlightening the cyclists who constantly cross the bridges, the joggers by the lake, and giving sparkles to the water, which flows through the city and surrounds it.

By chance we ended up with our AirBnB place being in a district where the best shops were just around the corner, so that the Italian emergency percolater I packed simply remains in the suitcase (as, without morning coffee the cowboy and I are no people), where they later made friends with these fantastic liquorice chocolates (raspberry, white chocolate and chili!).

All this we have been gifted and because it was so unexpected – business had led us to CPH – it hit us even more into the heart. Copenhagen, you have really meant it well with us.

And slowly it dawns on me why I did not know anyone so far from Copenhagen. It’s just too beautiful there. Nobody leaves.

Here are my highlights, in no particular order:

1) Ravnsborg Vinbar
Based in Nørrebro on Ravnsborggade, a street formerly dominated by antique shops with many charming shops, gastronomy, art galleries and a theater, there is this Vinbar. Almost by chance we stop there for a bite to eat because we find no place at 20A on the opposite side of the street and where coffee before was delicious. The restaurant turns out to be a completion for an anyway exciting day. We are being served very charmingly and cheerfully, the wine is sensational and the food wonderfully to the point, not to say memorable. At the same time from a Simplicity that we quickly identify as Nordic regional cuisine. The coffee adds the whole experience a worthy conclusion – we could sit all evening in  mild air at small wooden tables under the light of low glowing gas lamps.

Ravnsborg Vinbar
Ravnsborggade 19
Nørrebro

2) Parterre Christianshavn
Another gem we discover when cycling on a trip along the canal in Christianshavn district. Just far enough from the tourist bustle, right in front of small boats in the port, across benches. The little corner cafe, named after ist location on the ground floor, is very pretty, a little raw, and as I later realize, Copenhagen’s most photographed coffee shop on Instagram’. (http://www.guide-to-copenhagen.com/cafe/parterre-best-cafe-christianshavn)
The coffee is slightly salty and just delicious. For us one of the most exciting taste memories during our days in the city. When asked the young barista shows us a white package with Italian beans labeled K80. Not more than 14 days later Cesare from German sales Caffe River sends us beans (and a few T-shirts) – simply wonderful.

Parterre
Overgaden Oven Vandet 90
Christianshavn

3) Stedsans temporary rooftop restaurant – Clean, Simple, Local
This small place is as hip as magical, a restaurant in a greenhouse in the midst of a Rooftop garden on a commercial building.
Just before the gym in the courtyard, a narrow spiral staircase made of iron bars goes upwards into the sky, showing off my fear of heights impressively. Half way up I want neither up nor back, the wind makes it no better when finally a sign that we suddenly discover indicates that we are on the right track. Once at the top a romantic city scene opens: green beds of vegetables and flowers, beehives and even chickens. At the end of the garden a party is being served a meal in the greenhouse. The couple who hosts the place (her a food writer and him a chef) from May to the end of October serves guests Thursday to Sunday twice a day with 5-6 courses. Anyone planning a visit should best subscribe the mailing list, as tickets are extremely sought after.

Fun fact: on the walk through Nørrebro you pass the hospital Rigshospitalet, that appears in Lars von Trier´s tv series ‚The Kingdom’.

Stedsans
Æbeløgade 4
Østerbro

4) Bevar’s
Smørrebrød at its finest, nice coffee, extraordinary salads, soups and Lunch Bowls – thats what Bevar´s serves and why in no time it becomes our daily breakfast café. Nowhere else we stop as often for a happy snack and good morning coffee. The crowd is wonderfully relaxed, the service as well. Sofas mix in with wooden tables and working spaces.

Bevar’s
Ravnsborggade 10B
Nørrebro

5) Street Food Market, Root Food
On our bicycle tour through the eastern part of the city we pass the Indoor Street Food Market, which sounded more exciting than it looks. But after a few tours through the crowd we fight our way to have very fantastic Summer Rolls and fresh juices at Root Food, for which I would actually go back again in spite of the many tourists.

Copenhagen Street Food
Trangravsvej 14, Warehouse 7/8
Christianshavn

6) The Coffee Collective, Cafe Rosa
The next spot is actually two, but they share the same roof, the Torvehallerne market with all kinds of delicatessen and food stalls. The tip to pick up a delicious cinnamon roll at Cafe Rosa, and then to get a coffee two stalls up I found in this wonderful guide and herewith I pass it on to you. Just like that, awesome and delicious and worth every minute in any queue. The small colorful bakery Cafe Rosa is worth a stop anyway, you can see that the owner of the place is a huge Pippi Longstocking-Fan. All equipment is like a colorful smorgasbord, the cinnamon scent seduces to stay, and the pies and cakes look quite fantastic, too.

Torvehallerne
Frederiksborggade 21

The Coffee Colective
Cafe Rosa

7) Mikkeler Beer Bar
The story alone of two twin brothers who discovered the brewing of beer and then were at loggerheads with each other – one remained and operates Mikkeler, the other fled to New York and opened Tørst – is exceptional.
Tørst Bar in New York I like so well that I really want to see where the whole story has begun. And we are not disappointed. The bar is very stylish with lots of wood, the beer selection fantastic and even the ginger ale leaves a lasting impression.

Mikkeler Bar
Viktoriagade 8
Kødbyen

And yes, of course, Magasin (those porcellains!), Hay House, Aamanns and the lovely Copenhagen Coffee Lab are worth visiting as well.

I am eager to know, would you let me know of your favorite spots in Copenhagen?